Hot Rod Custom Painting

By Marcus Pfeil

 

1. This project was started with the vehicle totally disassembled to assure that the paint and primer would reach every nook and cranny.
2. After the vehicle was entirely primed inside and out, the interior was base coated and lear coated and allowed to dry fully. Next, the interior sections were masked off and the exterior was base coated in opaque white and covered with HOK Sunrise Pearl, clear coated and allowed to dry fully
3. At this stage the paint was dry enough to be wet-sanded with 800-grit wet/dry sandpaper, and then reassembled. The assembling of the hot rod is necessary in order to layout the flame design continuously from panel to panel.
4. Then, I layed out the initial part of the flame design using 3M 1/8" blue fineline tape avoiding pulling and stretching the tape too much or it will shirnk back to much of its original length and shape and cause some problems, particularly
"tape-unsticking".
5. With the flames laid out, it's time to mask them off. Because this design is a multilayered flame design the top layer of flames using the existing yellow of the vehicle itself, I masked the inside of this flame layout using one & five inch 3M automotive masking tape.
6. Here's the next layer, which should appear as if it lays beneath the first layer. This layer was painted with Orion Silver under silver mini flakes follows with ice Pearl White and covered with HOK Kandy Pagen Gold.
7. The outside of the flames were masked off for this layer to expose only the areas that to be painted. The rest of the vehicle was masked off with masking tape and plastic sheeting to protect against overspray. Now she's ready for paint.
8. For the first stage of the kandy process I used Orion Silver under silver mini flakes followed by Ice Pearl White.
9. For the second stage of this process, I applied a kandy coat. Although kandies are totally transparent, the colour deepens and intensifies with every coat. That's why it's important to get as uniform as possible. A run or a sag in this stage is disastrous.
10. The tape surrounding the gold flames were removed for pinstriping and drop shadows. This process enhances the layered flame look. The airbrushing of the drop shadows gives the flames a 3D feel, and the red pinstriping cleans up the edges of the flames and introduces an additional colour..
11a. The remaining masking tape was removed exposing the top layer (the yellow flame). I then repeated the pinstriping and shadowing on this layer.
11b. I used a lighter lemon yellow HOK urethane lettering enamel for the pinstriped outline which provided a beautiful contrast against the shadowing and a floating effect to boot.
12. With a striping sword, I decorated the trunk and headlight assemblies with some nice designs, giving the hot rod an appropriate nostalgic flair.
13a. To finish off this project, I airbrushed a mini mural - also my signature - with orange basecoat. The, for the clearcoat process I used HOK SG-100 first to check for any mistakes in the light basecolout - fingerprints, shadows or dirt spots. At this stage, flaws are easily fixed.
13b. Next, I shot several coats of the 2-pack clear very smoothly (alwats wait about half an hour between coats). The following day, I sanded the whole car with a special dry sandingpaper. Drysanding between coats enables you to identify unsanded areas.
13c. Then, we apply a final heavy coat of clear, followed by some sanding and buffing and the car is ready for delivery.

Reprinted with permission of Marcus Pfeil